Lombardy · Pavia
Varzi
A medieval Malaspina townin the Staffora valley of the Oltrepò Pavese, the seat of one of Italy's first DOP cured meats.
66 km / 41 mi
Nearest hub (Piacenza)
3,008
Population
Apr–Oct
Best time to visit
Recognised as
Why come
Varzi sitsin the Staffora valley of the Oltrepò Pavese, a strip of Lombard Apennine that runs south toward Genova rather than north toward Milano. The name comes from the Ligurian root Var, meaning torrent. In 1164 the village fell under the Malaspina, the Apennine feudal family who held it as part of their network of upland fiefdoms; the Malaspina tower, called the Torre delle Streghe, dates to the thirteenth century. The Via del Sale ran through Varzi from the Po plain to the Ligurian coast, and the salami invented to feed traders on that route is now one of Italy's first DOP cured meats: Salame di Varzi, recognized by Europe in 1996, produced by a handful of small companies in and around the town. The 2023 production was 503,561 certified salami. The second Sunday in June, the Sagra del Salame fills the medieval streets. The Sant'Alberto di Butrio hermitage, fourteen kilometers south through the Apennine, is the older religious anchor of the valley.
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Gallery
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Known for
Torre delle Streghe
Thirteenth-century Malaspina tower in the centro storico, also called the Witches' Tower, the surviving keep of the medieval defenses.
Castello dei Malaspina
Remains of the Malaspina castle, the seat of the feudal family that held Varzi from 1164 onward.
Centro storico medievale
Stone streets and arched passages of the medieval borgo, with the surviving village gates from the defensive walls.
Chiesa dei Cappuccini
Capuchin church on the edge of the centro storico, with the convent that served the Apennine community.
Mercato del salame
Salami shops and producers along the centro storico streets, the centre of the Salame di Varzi DOP production cluster.
When to visit
Best months · Apr–Oct
- J
- F
- M
- A
- M
- J
- J
- A
- S
- O
- N
- D
- Best
- Hot or crowded
- Quiet
- Mostly closed
April through October is the right window for the Staffora valley. Mild evenings, dry trails into the surrounding Apennine, and the salami shops in full production. The Sagra del Salame on the second Sunday of June fills the centro storico. July and August reach the high twenties; the borgo holds shade between two and six, and many Milanese keep summer houses in the hills. November through March is quiet. The valley fogs, snow falls on the higher passes, and the village belongs to the 3,000 residents and the production calendar of the DOP. Salami are stuffed in winter and cured into spring.
How to get there
From Piacenza, Varzi is roughly 66 km by road. Allow about 57–79 minutes depending on traffic and route choice (autostrada vs scenic).
Drive time to the nearest gateway airports
- Genoa1h 46m
- Milan2h 22m
- Turin2h 30m
Elevation 416 m
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