Anywhere Italy
Stemma di Lerici

Liguria · La Spezia

Lerici

The northern anchor of the Bay of Poets, a fishing harbour under a Pisan-Genoese castle where Byron and Shelley wrote and where the frazione of Tellaro hangs over the rocks at the bay's southern edge.

Known for

  • CASTLE

    Pentagonal Pisan-Genoese fortress on the harbour, with a paleontology museum holding Jurassic dinosaur tracks.

  • POETS' BAY

    Eastern shore of the Gulf of La Spezia where Byron and Shelley wrote and swam in the early 19th century.

  • TELLARO

    The commune's southern frazione, a borghi più belli member with houses stacked on a rocky promontory above the sea.

When to visit

Best · Apr–Oct

  • J
  • F
  • M
  • A
  • M
  • J
  • J
  • A
  • S
  • O
  • N
  • D
  • Best
  • Hot or crowded
  • Quiet
  • Mostly closed

Why come

Lerici sits on the eastern shore of the Gulf of La Spezia — what English Romantics renamed the Bay of Poets after Byron and Shelley made it their address in the early 19th century. The castle that defines the harbour was begun by the Pisans in 1152 to control the Gulf, captured by the Genoese in 1256, and rebuilt in its present pentagonal form through the 14th and 15th centuries; today it houses a paleontology museum with Jurassic dinosaur tracks recovered from the local sandstone. Shelley lived at the Casa Magni in nearby San Terenzo in 1822 — he drowned that summer sailing from Livorno — and Byron swam across the bay from Portovenere on his way to visit.

Beyond the historic harbour the commune stretches south past the colourful frazione of Tellaro, perched on a rocky promontory above the sea and a member of the Borghi più belli d'Italia network in its own right; the Castelnuovo trail links the two via olive terraces and pine woods. The town beach holds a Bandiera Blu and the harbour fills with sailing dinghies all summer.

We've been

Feature from our free newsletter

Lerici | An Old Friend on the Gulf of Poets

We know the steep streets above the castle by heart. We know which restaurant is for the view and which is for the dinner. We know that the gelato in San Terenzo, made at a place called La Rana Golosa, is worth the half-hour walk along the sea to find. We know the underpass that takes you to the small free beach under the castle, the rocks at the back of it, and the bench halfway along the promenade to San Terenzo where, on a good day, the wind off the Gulf has the precise temperature of being alive.

Read the full feature on anywhereitaly.com

Lerici — photo 1
Lerici — photo 2

What to see

  • Castello di Lerici

    Pentagonal fortress begun by the Pisans in 1152, captured by Genoa in 1256, rebuilt in its present form in the 14th-15th centuries. Houses a paleontology museum with Jurassic dinosaur tracks.

  • Bay of Poets / Casa Magni

    Eastern shore of the Gulf of La Spezia named for Byron and Shelley. The Casa Magni at San Terenzo (a Lerici frazione) was Shelley's residence in 1822, the year he drowned in the bay.

  • Tellaro

    Pastel-coloured fishing frazione clinging to a rocky promontory at the southern edge of the bay. Member of Borghi più belli d'Italia. Linked to Lerici by the coastal Castelnuovo trail.

  • Spiaggia di Lerici

    Town beach with a Bandiera Blu and a clear view of the castle. The harbour fills with sailing dinghies and the gulf's sailing-school fleet through the summer.

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We recommend

Where to eat and stay

Not our picks, but places the guides put their name to — a Michelin star, a Gambero Rosso fork, a Slow Food snail, a Michelin Key for the hotels. Worth a table, a counter, or a night when you pass through.

  • Il Fico trentacaregheRistorante

    Il Fico trentacareghe carries a spot in the Michelin Guide.

  • La BarcaRistorante

    La Barca holds a Gambero Rosso listing.

Living here

  • Population 9,425
  • Commuter belti
  • Pharmacy in town
  • High school within a 30-minute drive
  • Nearest airport Florence / Pisa, 1 h 10 min drive
  • Regional capital Genova, 1 h 30 min drive
Tags & datadesignations · numbers · sources

The numbers

  • Elevation: 10 m
  • Population: 9,425
  • Surface area: 16.01 km²

These figures were compiled from public directories — ISTAT, OpenStreetMap, Wikidata — and from the official listings of the guides named on this page. Town details change; verify with official sources before you travel.

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