Anywhere Italy
Stemma di Matera

Basilicata · Matera

Matera

Cave dwellings carved into limestone since the Paleolithic, called the shame of Italy in the 1950s and made European Capital of Culture in 2019.

65 km / 40 mi

Nearest hub (Bari)

59,685

Population

Apr–Oct

Best time to visit

Why come

Matera sitson the edge of the Gravina ravine in eastern Basilicata, fifty-five kilometers inland from Bari. The Sassi, two districts of houses, churches and cisterns hollowed from tufa limestone, are among the oldest continuously inhabited settlements on earth, with traces of human presence from the Paleolithic. Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano dropped down the canyon walls; people lived there with their animals into the 1950s. Carlo Levi's 1945 book and the 1948 photographs that followed turned the Sassi into a national scandal, and a 1952 law moved twenty thousand residents to new housing on the plateau above. The caves stayed empty for thirty years. UNESCO listed them in 1993. Mel Gibson shot The Passion of the Christ here in 2004 and the city was European Capital of Culture in 2019; No Time to Die filmed in the Sassi in 2019, bringing twelve million euros into the local economy. Bread, ceramics, and rock churches across the Gravina anchor what is now Basilicata's only mass-tourism destination.

The slow-trip planner

Building a trip? Find where Matera fits in a slow Italy circuit.

Answer five questions. We will shape a geographically coherent slow trip from the 1,000 Italian towns most travelers skip. Yours to save and share.

Gallery

7 photos · scroll →

Known for

  • Sassi di Matera

    Two districts of cave dwellings, Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano, carved from tufa limestone and inhabited continuously from the Paleolithic until the 1950s evictions.

  • Cattedrale della Madonna della Bruna e di Sant'Eustachio

    Thirteenth-century Apulian Romanesque cathedral on the highest point of the Civita, between the two Sassi, with rose window and bell tower.

  • Chiese rupestri del Parco della Murgia

    More than 150 rock-cut churches scattered across the Gravina canyon, frescoed between the eighth and thirteenth centuries by Italo-Greek monks.

  • Casa Grotta nei Sassi

    Reconstructed cave dwelling preserved as a museum, showing how families, livestock and grain lived together in a single rock room until the 1952 eviction law.

  • Gravina di Matera

    Limestone canyon below the Sassi, crossed by a footbridge to the rupestrian church park on the opposite cliff.

  • Castello Tramontano

    Aragonese castle commissioned in 1501 by Count Giovan Carlo Tramontano, who was killed by townspeople before it was finished; three of the original twelve towers stand.

When to visit

Best months · Apr–Oct

  • J
  • F
  • M
  • A
  • M
  • J
  • J
  • A
  • S
  • O
  • N
  • D
  • Best
  • Hot or crowded
  • Quiet
  • Mostly closed

April through June and September into October are the months Matera was built for. The light slants across the tufa façades in the late afternoon and turns the Sassi gold. July and August are punishing: temperatures cross thirty-five degrees and the canyon walls hold the heat past midnight, though hotels stay full because the Bond and Gibson tourism waves have not subsided. November through March is the quiet season; many Sasso restaurants close on weekdays and the rupestrian churches sit empty most mornings. The Festa della Bruna falls on 2 July, when a papier-mâché chariot is paraded through town and then torn apart by the crowd at midnight in front of the cathedral.

How to get there

From Bari, Matera is roughly 65 km by road. Allow about 5678 minutes depending on traffic and route choice (autostrada vs scenic).

Drive time to the nearest gateway airports

  • Bari / Brindisi57m
  • Naples / Salerno3h 13m
  • Lamezia / Reggio3h 48m

Elevation 401 m

Reachable by train

Subscribe — free

Get the best guides on hidden Italian towns.

One letter on Sundays. The week’s town, with the photo, the food, the festa. Free, by Peter & Sophia from Pietrasanta.

By subscribing you agree to Substack’s Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy and our Information collection notice.

Substack sends a confirmation link to your inbox. The signup finishes when it’s clicked.

Close by

More towns near Matera

🏛️ UNESCO

Other UNESCO towns in Italy