Signature dish
Italian towns with a dish of their own
Not a regional plate but a dish a single town gave its name to, or made its own. 17 comuni in the catalogue carry one, from Amatrice and its amatriciana to Modica and its cold-worked chocolate. Curated by hand; where a town's signature is uncertain, we leave it blank.
- 1.SulmonaConfetti di SulmonaL'Aquila · AbruzzoAt 405 meters in the Valle Peligna, birthplace of Ovid in 43 BC and home of the sugared-almond confetti industry since the 14th century.
- 2.MateraPane di MateraMatera · BasilicataCave dwellings carved into limestone since the Paleolithic, called the shame of Italy in the 1950s and made European Capital of Culture in 2019.
- 3.Bagnara CalabraTorrone di BagnaraReggio di Calabria · CalabriaA swordfish town on the Costa Viola where boats with lookout masts still hunt the Strait, and the IGP torrone has been made by hand since the eighteenth century.
- 4.PizzoTartufo di PizzoVibo Valentia · CalabriaA tuff-cliff town over the Gulf of Sant'Eufemia, where Joachim Murat was shot in 1815 and the tartufo gelato was invented a century later.
- 5.CetaraColatura di aliciSalerno · CampaniaThe Amalfi Coast's working tuna and anchovy port, where colatura di alici is still aged in chestnut barrels in the cellars behind the marina.
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- 6.AmatriceSpaghetti all'AmatricianaRieti · LazioA 955-meter Apennine town leveled by the 24 August 2016 earthquake, slowly rebuilding the streets that gave amatriciana its name.
- 7.GaetaTiella di GaetaLatina · LazioThe promontory port where the Bourbon Kingdom of the Two Sicilies fell in February 1861 and the south of Italy stopped existing as a state.
- 8.
Monterosso al MareAcciughe di MonterossoLa Spezia · LiguriaThe westernmost and largest of the Cinque Terre, where Eugenio Montale spent the childhood summers that became Ossi di seppia in 1925. - 9.ReccoFocaccia di Recco col formaggioGenova · LiguriaA coastal town on the Golfo Paradiso, rebuilt from 90 percent destruction in 1943 and known for IGP cheese focaccia and Pro Recco water polo.
- 10.TrioraPane di TrioraImperia · LiguriaThe witches' village at 776 meters in the upper Valle Argentina, where the Inquisition put around 200 women on trial between 1587 and 1589.
- 11.BraSalsiccia di BraCuneo · PiedmontA Roero town at 290 meters where Carlo Petrini founded Slow Food in 1986 and the world's first gastronomic university now teaches food systems.
- 12.ModicaCioccolato di ModicaRagusa · SicilyA vertical Baroque city in the Hyblean Mountains, rebuilt from the 1693 earthquake and home to a chocolate recipe brought from Aztec Mexico.
- 13.Barberino di MugelloTortelli di patate del MugelloFirenze · TuscanyThe Mugello gateway at 272 meters where the Medici family kept its first country villas, with Michelozzo's Cafaggiolo and the artificial Lago di Bilancino below.
- 14.
LuccaTordelli lucchesiLucca · TuscanyThe provincial capital ringed by four kilometers of intact sixteenth-century walls, birthplace of Puccini and the only fully walled Italian city of its scale. - 15.
Montecatini-TermeCialde di MontecatiniPistoia · TuscanyEleven thermal springs in a Liberty-style park at the foot of the Apennines, one of the Great Spa Towns of Europe inscribed by UNESCO in 2021. - 16.PontremoliTestaroliMassa-Carrara · TuscanyThe capital of Lunigiana at the confluence of the Magra and Verde, holding the prehistoric stele statues and the oldest book prize in Italy.
- 17.
SienaPanforte di SienaSiena · TuscanyThe medieval rival of Florence at 322 meters on three hills, with a shell-shaped piazza where seventeen contrade race bareback horses twice a year.
We write about towns like these every Sunday, one town a week, with the photo, the food, the festa. Free, from Pietrasanta.
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From elsewhere in Italy
Five more towns to discover

Putignano
Province: Bari
Europe's longest-running carnival — Putignano Carnevale has run continuously since 1394, with 631 years of cartapesta papier-mâché floats, a 26,000-resident Murgia town on the Bari–Lecce plateau, and the Grotta del Trullo karst cave inside the centro.

Pistoia
Province: Pistoia
Italy's nursery capital and the medieval Tuscan rival that gave its name to the pistol — a quietly extraordinary centro storico of zebra-striped Romanesque churches, Andrea della Robbia's polychrome frieze on the Ospedale del Ceppo, and Italy's Capital of Culture 2017, all 30 minutes from Florence by train.

Tropea
Province: Vibo Valentia
Cliff town on a tufa headland over the Tyrrhenian Coast of the Gods, with a Norman monastery on a sea rock.

Caldes
Province: Trento
A scattered Val di Sole commune on the Noce, six hamlets gathered around a thirteenth-century tower-house castle that once belonged to the Thun family.

Cantiano
Province: Pesaro e Urbino
A border borgo at 374 meters under Monte Catria on the old Via Flaminia, known for the Good Friday Turba and the sour-cherry visciola harvest.
