Tuscany · Livorno
Capraia Isola
A volcanic island of 370 residents and one village, the third largest of the Tuscan Archipelago, a penal colony from 1873 to 1986 and a national park since.
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Nearest hub
370
Population
May–Sep
Best time to visit
Recognised as
Why come
Capraia is a volcanic island in the Tuscan Archipelago, the third largest after Elba and Giglio, the northernmost of the seven. The eruption cone is still visible at Cala Rossa, where the cliffs hold the red of oxidized basalt. The Genoese built the Forte San Giorgio on the harbor in 1540 on an earlier fortification destroyed by the corsair Turgut Reis; the fort served as the island's defense against pirates for two centuries. From 1873 to 1986, the Italian state ran the Colonia Penale Agricola di Capraia, an agricultural penal colony that occupied two thirds of the island and drove out most of the population. The fences and cells came down after the prison closed in 1986. The Arcipelago Toscano National Park, established in 1996, now covers the whole island and the waters around it. The comune has 370 residents, the least-populated Italian municipality with an outlet to the sea. There is one village, one harbor, and no cars beyond a few service vehicles.
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Gallery
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Known for
Forte San Giorgio
Sixteenth-century Genoese fort above the harbor, built in 1540 on the foundation of an earlier tower destroyed by Turgut Reis.
Cala Rossa
Red volcanic cove on the western side of the island, the visible half of the original eruption cone.
Stagnone
Small natural lake at 320 meters, the only freshwater basin in the Tuscan Archipelago, on the volcanic plateau above the village.
Sentiero del Semaforo
Coastal trail to the abandoned naval signal station at the southern tip, with views to Corsica on clear days.
Colonia Penale ruins
Abandoned buildings of the agricultural penal colony at the north end of the island, dismantled after 1986 and slowly returning to scrub.
When to visit
Best months · May–Sep
- J
- F
- M
- A
- M
- J
- J
- A
- S
- O
- N
- D
- Best
- Hot or crowded
- Quiet
- Mostly closed
May through September is the only practical season on Capraia. The ferry from Livorno runs three to four times a week in summer, less in winter, and the crossing takes two and a half hours through open sea. The Mediterranean warms enough to swim from mid-May; July and August fill the few rooms on the island and book out the small restaurants in the village. October is still warm and largely empty, the best month for hikers walking the volcanic plateau. November through April is the long quiet. Many establishments close from late October until Easter, the ferry schedule thins to two crossings a week, and high winds in winter can cancel them entirely. The 370 residents become the only people on the island for stretches at a time.
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