Imola

Imola is two cities sharing a name. The medieval one is a quietly handsome Romagna brick town 35 km southeast of Bologna along the Via Emilia, with the Rocca Sforzesca (rebuilt by Caterina Sforza in 1473–1499 — the Tigress of Forlì, who held this fortress through the Borgia siege of 1500) anchoring the centro. The Palazzo Tozzoni museum, the 11th-century Cattedrale di San Cassiano with its crypt of the city's patron, the Palazzo Sersanti on the central piazza, and the medieval grid of porticoed brick streets all read as a smaller-scale Bologna. The OTHER Imola is the Autodromo Enzo e Dino Ferrari — the 4.9-km F1 circuit on the south bank of the Santerno, built 1953 and named for Enzo Ferrari and his son Dino after Dino's death. It hosted the San Marino Grand Prix every May from 1981 to 2006 (and again 2020–present), and is the circuit where Ayrton Senna died in 1994 at the Tamburello corner — a memorial still stands there. The Emilia Romagna Grand Prix in April–May is the city's biggest tourist event of the year. Outside race weekends the circuit is a public park; locals jog the track. The food is Romagna: piadina romagnola (the city is Città dell'Olio, and the local Brisighella Nostrana di Brisighella DOP olive oil is what dresses it), passatelli in brodo, cappelletti, Sangiovese di Romagna from the surrounding hills, and the local nocino walnut liqueur made by every grandmother in the foothills.