Tuscany · Lucca
Castiglione di Garfagnana
A walled medieval town at 540 meters in the Garfagnana, the Lucca outpost that refused to submit to the Este and held the pass to San Pellegrino.
Known for
LUCCHESE OUTPOST
The Garfagnana town that stayed loyal to the Republic of Lucca through the Este wars, besieged unsuccessfully in 1603 and 1613.
CHESTNUT POLENTA
Winter dish of chestnut flour polenta with boiled pig bones, served in local trattorie when the Garfagnana woods come into harvest.
SAN PELLEGRINO PASS
Medieval route over the Apennines to Modena that the Castrum Leonis was built to control, still the main road north out of the valley.
When to visit
Best · May–Oct
- J
- F
- M
- A
- M
- J
- J
- A
- S
- O
- N
- D
- Best
- Hot or crowded
- Quiet
- Mostly closed
Why come
Castiglione di Garfagnana sits at 540 meters on the road to the San Pellegrino pass, in the upper Serchio valley, surrounded by chestnut woods and the Apuan and Apennine ridges. The Romans built a castrum here, the Castrum Leonis, to command the route between Lucca and Modena; what stands now is the thirteenth-century walled town, with three Torrioni and a Rocca that still anchor the south flank. Through the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, while the rest of the Garfagnana fell to the Este of Ferrara and was administered by Ariosto from nearby Castelnuovo, Castiglione held for the Republic of Lucca.
The Estensi besieged it in 1603 and 1613 without taking it. The Pieve di San Pietro Apostolo, the oldest church in the borgo, was first built in 723 by two Lombard brothers and rebuilt in the twelfth century. In winter the trattorie serve chestnut polenta with boiled pork bones, the standard cold-weather dish of the valley.


What to see
Rocca medievale
Thirteenth-century fortress with three Torrioni, the symbol of Castiglione and the anchor of the medieval walls.
Mura medievali
Well-preserved thirteenth-century walls with large defensive towers ringing the borgo, intact for most of their length.
Pieve di San Pietro Apostolo
Oldest church in town, first built in 723 by two Lombard brothers and rebuilt in the twelfth century by Bishop Guido III of Lucca.
Chiesa di San Michele
Smaller medieval church inside the walls, with stone façade and a single nave preserved through later modifications.
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The Sunday letter
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Living here
- Population 1,705
- Off the beaten pathi
- Pharmacy in town
- High school within a 30-minute drive
- Nearest airport Florence / Pisa, 1 h 52 min drive
- Regional capital Firenze, 2 h 6 min drive
Tags & datadesignations · numbers · sources
Recognised as
The numbers
- Elevation: 540 m
- Population: 1,705
- Surface area: 48.53 km²
These figures were compiled from public directories — ISTAT, OpenStreetMap, Wikidata — and from the official listings of the guides named on this page. Town details change; verify with official sources before you travel.
Close by
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